Manta

Images of the city of Manta. Except for the upper right image, all are of a city place

created since 1966

 

 

Manta today is a very different city from the place I visited on an October weekend in 1966. For starters, it is much bigger. with a 2010 population of 217,553 compared to about 48,000 more than 50 years ago. I expect that the beaches are a bit more crowded.

 

Lacking photos of our 1966 Manta weekend, these photos were selected for the ability to bring back those old memories.

 

 

 

Manta has existed since Pr-Columbian times. It was a trading post for the Manta people, also known as Manteños. Today tuna fishing is its principal economic activity.

 

 

Depending on the source, Manta has the largest or second largest seaport in Ecuador. From its port it ships elsewhere coffee, cacao, bananas, cotton, textiles, and fish. Deep-sea commercial fishing is based there. 

 

Manta has a large tuna cannery which ships all over the world. It has a chemical industry, with products ranging from cleaning supplies to oils and margarine.

Tourism has grown as seaside resort and fishing facilities have been established. Various cruise ships make Manta a port of call while traveling the southern Pacific Ocean. The popular Murciélago Beach is on the city's northwestern tip. Bars and restaurants are clustered along the Malecón Escénico promenade and nearby streets. The low-key Tarqui Beach has a waterside fish market.

Montecristi

Current downtown Montecristi scene thanks to Google Maps

In 2010 Montecristi's population was 46,300. This was a substantial increase from its 1966 population of around 5,000. Much of that growth has occured in the last two decades due to a substantial increase in the rate of growth since the turn of the century.

 

Montecristi was founded during the first years of the Spanish conquest when Manta residents fled inland to avoid pirate attacks. According to some sources, the place acquired the name of Montecriste from an early settler named Criste. The village name later evolved into Montecristi. 

 

Hat store in Montecristi

 

 

 

"Panama" hats are a major product of Montecristi, Ecuador. They are hand-made by the local residents. It takes a few days to make a basic Panama hats. The real expensive ones take much longer to finish and cost in the thousands of dollars. 

 

"Panama Hats" during manufacture

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In the 1960s, Ocepa was the organization through which Peace Corps Volunteers were placed with artisans in Ecuador. A major objective was to create items more salable on the international market. Ocepa no longer exists. Different organizations appear to have taken on some of Ocepa's former role working with artisans.

 

The Montecristi Foundation is a non-profit NGO that works with  makers of "Panama" hats. According to their website, their mission is to preserve, and to re-grow, the centuries-old art of hand-weaving the legendary Montecristi “Panama” hats.

  

Los Colorados

 

The Tsachila are an indigenous people who reside in the Ecuadorian province of Santo Domingo de los Tsáchilas, an Ecuadorian Province created in 2007 from territory previously in the province of Pichincha. 

 

Colorados participating in a ceremony

 

 

The Spaniards called them "Colorado" (meaning colored red) because they used to cover their entire bodies in the red juices of the achiote seeds, for prevention against Smallpox. Men wear horizontally striped cobalt blue/black and white skirts, and the women wear brightly colored horizontally striped skirts.

 

Ecuador Space Connection

 

Former NASA satellite tracking station in Chile

 

Space Activity

 

In August 1957, the United States, through NASA (the National Aeronautics and Space Administration) installed on the slopes of Cotopaxi Volcano, a Satellite Tracking Station for the purpose of monitoring and controlling the orbit of American satellites.  

 

NASA rocket on the launch pad

 

 

 

In 1981, fifteen years after our visit to the satellite tracking station, NASA ended 25 year’s of tracking US space satellites in Ecuador and handed the station over to the Ecuadorian government.

 

In 1977 Ecuador created CLIRSEN (the Center for Integrated Natural Resources Remote Sensing). Starting in 1981 CLIRSEN gathered satellite data to produce maps for the planning and development of the country. Subjects covered included agriculture, aquaculture, environment, health and disaster preparedness. 

 

In 2007 Ecuador celebrated the 50th anniversary of the station. Beginning in 2012, the station was operated by a new Ecuadorian agency; the Ecuadorian Space Institute or IEE. The Institute continued the activities developed under CLIRSEN and took on new responsibilities related to space research.

 

Image based on an official photo of the Ecuadorian Space Institute
operating on the site of the former satellite tracking station

 

Cooperative Courses

 

Creating and presenting various courses for the cooperatives under my responsibility was my first introduction to teaching. As can be seen in my letters home, I thoroughly enjoyed the teaching experience.

 

Students in one of our cooperative classes

 

 

 

My language failings bothered me throughout my Peace Corps service. Despite this weakness, I seem to have survived and been of a benefit to the country. Working primarily in the capital city where English knowledge was highly valued and possessing skills learned from an excellent economics education helped me considerably.

Despite my lack of fluency with Spanish conversation, I was able to design and create the courses in Spanish. I used my Spanish knowledge to translate English sources into Spanish and present the information to the cooperative students. Reviewing the lessons learned, we found the students successfully expanding  their understanding of the particular subjects involved. 

 

Weather Ills

Quito's Plaza Grande (or de Independencia) before a winter rain

The weather is not the most exciting subject for a place located almost two miles high and on the equator. Nevertheless, it can have a significant impact on one's health if care is not taken to protect oneself.  

 

The proposed trip to Manta could have a positive health impact, especially since hurricanes are not known to frequent Manta's coast. Getting to better know the country we are serving in is also a positive benefit of service in the Peace Corps. Our Manta experience will be described in the next post.

 

Walkout

Church and Plaza San Francisco, site of major credit cooperative in Quito,
H Graem © 1966

 

This church was the location of a cooperative I worked with in Quito. As I recall, it was a well run operation. Not much to add to my words of 1966 regarding our Volunteer work with the credit cooperatives and the politics of the national organization which resulted in the "Walkout" which is the title of this post. I do wonder if the Federation still exists and if it still oversees Ecuador's cooperatives at the national level.

According to RFILC, in 2020 the savings and credit cooperatives in Ecuador are second only to the banks in the financial sector. Cooperatives handle 10% of the national financial transactions. There are more than 430 cooperatives that serve about 1,800,000 clients, 60% of which are micro-enterprises (and 45% rural micro-enterprises). The majority of the cooperatives are predominantly urban. Information respecting the status of credit cooperatives in Ecuador in 2005 may be found here.

At the end of 1966, these persons in the above photograph were at work at the National Federation of Cooperatives Headquarters in Quito. Not present were Ecuadorian extentionists and Peace Corps Volunteers busy elsewhere in the country. The only Americans present were Dan Moriarty (CUNA) and one Peace Corps Volunteer, Hugh Graham.

 

National Federation of Cooperatives
Quito Headquarters

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Photo above was taken at the market discussed in the letter, H Graem © 1966

 

Otavalo market in 21st Century,
H Graem © 2007

Map showing location of Otavalo
and Ibarra in relation to Quito.

 

Mount Cayambe partially visible and crested with clouds on a return trip to Quito.
H Graem © 2007

Vicentina

View of Vicentina barrio from adjoining vacant land with the Cayambe Volcano in the background

Settling In

 

Respecting the three Vicentina images above, the top one on the right shows the house where Bob and I lived on the first floor. The middle image shows Bob on the left with our two landlords who lived on the second floor. The woman on the right was their daughter. The animal being held is the coatimundi I mention in my letter. The bottom image is a view over Vicentina looking beyond the barrio to the gorge on the other side. 

 

Searching for furniture for our new home

I don't know the conditions experienced by most Volunteers living in Ecuador. As city dwellers, Bob and I lived in conditions similar to others we knew, both Volunteers and Ecuadorians who were our colleagues. We were expected to live like the average citizen of Ecuador. So buses, walking and an occasional taxi were our principal means of transportation. Living about 9,000 feet high and walking each day to work and where we ate our meals kept us in good shape.

As can be read in my Food and News letter excerpt below, Maria was a popular provider of meals for numerous young people living away from home and trying to make a go of it in the big city. Maria's was a good place to meet volunteers working in other Peace Corps groups, Ecuadorian university students and volunteers working in other parts of the country who had traveled to Quito.

Getting news from the outside world appears to be more informal back in the 1960s, even in the USA. I can not imagine a Volunteer today arranging for a special subscription price with the circulation manager of a national magazine.

Another news source was the shortwave radio. I remember listening to the BBC most frequently, with the Voice of America also being available.

 

 

Maria & son Gonzalo prepared our meals

 

A Teaching Success

One of our major responsibilities working with the credit unions in Ecuador was to improve the accounting standards of the individual cooperatives.  To achieve this goal we audited their books, trained employees, and provided classes for leaders and persons responsible for the day-to-day functioning of the cooperatives.

 

Another goal the National Credit Union Association was pushing involved production credit; encouraging the leaders to invest more cooperative funds and effort into production purposes rather than just consumer credit. The goal being to strengthen the economic level of the country.

 

I think the excerpt below speaks for itself. It seems pretty clear that I was quite pleased with my first teaching experience. 

 

 

Yaruquí

Some of us decided to add some excitement to our official beginning as Peace Corps Volunteers. What would be more exciting than our first Ecuadorian bullfight. Our experience at this event is described in the June 15 letter excerpt below.

 

 

 

Starting Work

 

In June 1966 there were four of us working with credit cooperatives in Quito. Beside myself, one was from New York City, one from Indiana, and the other (my roommate Bob Jensen) from Washington State. I had six cooperatives directly under my charge. However, we helped each other out, especially at this early stage when our Spanish was not the best. In the first week we analyzed the management and accounting of our coops. The second week we were supposed to make out a work plan until December. It didn’t get beyond July. 

 

Yaruquí Trip

 

The three Quito visitors to the Coop, starting second from left, are
Bob Jensen, Hugh Graham and Carlos Flores Romero

 

The above letter text written more than 50 years ago describes a Yaruquí that no longer exists. Yaruquí parish today includes a population of about 18,000 people. It has experienced major changes of great significance for Yaruquí, Quito and the country as a whole.  

 

Adjoining the northwest edge of the parish about 18 kilometers east of Quito a new airport has risen; Mariscal Sucre International Airport, the busiest airport in Ecuador. Beginning construction in 2006, it opened in February 2013 and replaced the old Mariscal Sucre International Airport. The new airport serves over 5 million passengers a year. 

 

The old airport posed enormous risks because it was located in the middle of a mountainous city with high wind currents. It could no longer be expanded to accommodate larger aircraft or increased air traffic.

Getting Acquainted

 

The 6-27-1966 letter excerpt below describes some of my contacts with Ecuadorians not involved with the credit cooperative movement. Regrettably, these acquaintances were fleeting and I lost contact over time.

 

Getting acquainted with some teenagers while on our first hike up Mt. Pichincha

Ride and Switch

1966 Bus-Train passengers taking a lunch break and the view traveling on top

 

 

 

Reading my 1966 description of the train ride from Guayaquil to Quito, I fear the image of the ugly American may come to mind. The reality, which I remember well, presents a different picture. 

We were soon to be (we hoped) official Peace Corps Volunteers. On this train ride our minds were on more than the beautiful scenery passing by the windows. We were experiencing the anticipation and fear of a soon-to-be new period in our lives. Culminating all the difficulties of the recent months and the struggle navigating a different culture speaking another language, within the coming days we were to be "knighted" Volunteers or sent on our way to a future elsewhere. In the context, letting our hair down and enjoying a short-lived jubilant experience on a June day seems excusable.

Ferrocarril Transandino

Ecuador's rail system was started by President Gabriel García Moreno in 1861. It was devised to connect the Pacific coast with the Andean highlands. 

The push into the Andes was made under President Eloy Alfaro who planned to link Quito in the highlands to Guayaquil on the coast of Ecuador. For advice, Alfaro turned to Col. William Findlay Shunk, a well-known North American engineer. 

Modern tourist Crucero Train
on today's railroad

The Guayaquil and Quito railroad line was built between 1897 and 1908. The line reached Quito amidst celebration that lasted for days. Its completion shortened the often lengthy trip from Quito to Guayaquil to two days. Alfaro realized his dream of connecting the two most important parts of Ecuador.

The railway was severely damaged by heavy rainfall in 1997 and 1998 as well as from general neglect. In 2008 the president Rafael Correa named the railroad a "national cultural patrimony" and indicated that it would be restored. The government of Ecuador started to rehabilitate the railway and service was restored between Guayaquil and Quito by 2013.

The Switch

 

Our group trained to work with credit cooperatives in Ecuador. We completed initial training at Camp Crozier in the mountains of Puerto Rico. That training period is described in the first post. It lasted from March 4, 1966 to April 29, 1966. 

 

The final five weeks of training occurred in-country in Ecuador. This second period was split between two localities; (1) our prospective work site in Ecuador and (2) a final 10 days in Quito.  If we succeeded, in Quito we would be officially enrolled as Peace Corps Volunteers. 

 

It was during these last 10 days that I experienced the 'switch'. At some point I learned that I would be serving as a Volunteer working out of Quito, not Guayaquil. 

 

The main reason, although probably not the only one, for this significant change was mentioned in my June 15, 1966 letter home.  Two volunteer trainees who were expected to work in Quito had dropped out of the program and left the country. I was chosen by the Peace Corps Ecuador administrators to partially fill this gap.    

We 22 remaining volunteers were a significant reduction from the 30 candidates that arrived for training at Camp Crozier in March 1966. As I recall, at least one of those who left ended up in Vietnam. A number of the others were able to find a place in postgraduate studies. I contacted some of them about attending our first reunion in 2009, but none responded.