Ride in the Coastal Forest

Coastal Dry Forest with Ceibo Trees standing as sentinels

 

Ecuadorians have protected the Ceibo tree for centuries. Even now, as coastal dry forests are slashed and burned, Ceibo trees remain alone and in pairs, standing guard like soldiers on the heights of coastal hillsides. The Ceibo tree, the 'redwood' of the 'La Costa'  forest, has adapted to periods of drought, appearing dead in the dry season and sending a spectacular display of fresh green leaves and bright white flowers after heavy rains.

  

La Costa Forests

La Costa region of Ecuador shown in red

The western coastal area of Ecuador ("La Costa") is the site of the Pacific Equatorial Forest   whose forest remnants are considered the most endangered tropical forest in the world. La Costa is one of the four natural regions into which Ecuador is divided. The other three are the Sierra (the Andes Mountain Range), The Oriente (the lowland Amazon forest east of the Andes), and the Galapagos islands in the Pacific Ocean. Some 75% of the original native forest has been lost.

 

La Costa encompasses a broad coastal plain, along with some small mountain ranges, extending from the Pacific Ocean on the west to the foothills of the Andes Mountains to the east. It is estimated that a majority of the native forest that originally covered coastal Ecuador has been eliminated in favor of cattle ranching and other agricultural pursuits; including cacao, palm, banana and coffee plantations. Some remaining forest is part of the Tumbes-Choco-Magdalena biodiversity hotspot.

 

The vast majority of the Pacific Equatorial Forest remains unprotected and continues to be logged and cleared for agriculture and cattle ranching. In 2009 the Ecuadorian Ministry of the Environment launched its Socio Bosque (Forest Partners) program, which provides forest owners with an annual conservation subsidy of $30 per hectare ($12/acre). Long-term success is uncertain. 

 

 

The Ride

Note the rugged terrain east of Independencia
where the ride probably occurred

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The satellite image below (click on it to make it larger) shows Independencia. It appears to have grown considerably larger than a hamlet in the 50+ years since I rode the trail to La Deliciosa. The rural area around the village shows some remaining original forest or rejuvenated second growth forest. Lands converted to agriculture indicate a variety of uses. Grasslands for cattle or other grazing animals appear to be the most common.

 

Satellite view of Independencia and environs

The most recent conservation innovation is the use of drones.  At least one organization in Ecuador is implementing drone technology to assist their conservation efforts. Initial plans are to use drones for monitoring the area for illegal logging activities. Another possible drone activity could be monitoring reforestation efforts. CEIBA, is working hard and committing resources to preserving the coastal forest. 

 

 

 

 

Chimborazo

Bob and John as we contemplated started off on our climb of Chimborazo Volcano

 

View of the volcano as we began our climb

Chimborazo is the highest mountain in Ecuador and in the Andes north of Peru. Despite its great height, it is only the 39th highest peak in the Andes. These mountains stretch from the Caribbean Coast of Columbia to the Strait of Magellan in the southern reaches of Chile. Chimborazo is a currently inactive stratovolcano in the Cordillera Occidental range of the Andes. Its last known eruption is believed to have occurred around 550 CE.

 

Climbing through a boulder field

 

The peak of the volcano is 6,263 meters (20,548 ft) above sea level.  Chimborazo’s summit is also the farthest point on the Earth’s surface from the planet’s center, being located along the equatorial bulge. The bulge makes the planet about 43 km (27 mi) wider at the equator than pole-to-pole.

Chimborazo is a favorite of mountain climbers. Reaching the top of the volcano is not a stroll in the country. The climb requires some skill and is often on black ice with low visability due to the clouds crowning its summit. Clampons and other  climbing equipment are required. 

Reading my trip description in the letter excerpt below, I am struck by my naivety regarding the potential climb difficulties. I certainly did not possess the technical equipment which would minimize the dangers associated with a transverse of the icy glacier surface at the volcano's summit. Remaining at the refuge below the snowline was perhaps a smarter decision than I realized at the time.

 

Settling a disagreement

One major disappointment became more evident as I read this letter and searched my files. Numerous photos from my Peace Corps days were missing from the archive I had saved over the years.  The unusual photos and magnificant vistas that i mentioned in this letter were nowheres to be found. 

 

The quality of developed photos prior to digital was sometimes hit or miss. However, I doubt that so many of mine turned out as duds upon development. I fear that many  were misplaced and lost over the intervening years. 

 

 

  

Cayambe and Sundry

Cayambe mountain and farmland

 

The above photo gives a clear picture of the agriculture system in Ecuador's highlands. The higher and steeper lands beneath the rocky height are generally all that is left for the indians to cultivate.

These snippets from an April letter give some sense of the variety of my Peace Corps service life in the capital city of Ecuador. The architecture exhibition was unusual, but we frequently attended first run movies at the local cinema. 

The second paragraph indicates a bit of the variety of co-op activity I was involved with in Quito.  The seminar preparation and statistical report were probably worked on in the National Credit Union Federation building. Working with individual co-ops usually occured in their place of business.

The trip to Cayambe was with the Ecuadorian extention agent with whom I frequently worked. The co-ops are located in the zone of the country which was our responsibility.  The last paragraph gives a sense of my thoughts on some of the difficulties we faced in helping the people of the country achieve economic and social success.

 

 

 

Cotocollao: Prejudice and Progress

 

 

The prejudice toward the indian population of Ecuador is well illustrated by the conflicts among the residents of Cotocollao's barrios. The evil of such prejudice is made extremely graphic by the example of the indian woman trying to get a bus ride to Quito. 

 

Ancient Cotocollao was  a large village. Prior to the discovery of the archaeological site in the 1970s, little was known about pre-columbian cultural life in the northern sierra. The site is strategically located near a pass that connects the Quito basin with the tropical forests of the western Andean foothills. Cotocollao was occupied from approximately 1800 to 500 bce. The occupation levels at Cotocollao are capped by a thick layer of volcanic ash and lapilli associated with the eruption of Mount Pululahua, which is located about seventeen miles to the north. The eruption of this volcano, dated to approximately 467 bce, is thought to have caused the abandonment of the site.